Fleming: Crafting Tomorrow's Classics

Founded by Thomas Fleming and led by former attorney-turned-watch photographer James Kong, Fleming embodies a new generation of independent watchmakers who bring a collaborative mindset to modern watchmaking. Rather than claiming in-house supremacy, they openly embrace working with external suppliers while maintaining rigorous design control.

James' journey from lawyer to industry insider reads like a modern American success story. In just two years, he transformed from a photography hobbyist to shooting for Hodinkee and major brands, before joining Fleming as COO and Art Director. His transition mirrors broader changes in the watch industry, where passion and vision increasingly matter as much as traditional credentials.

Introduction & Journey To Watches

Ken: For those who don't know, James is the man behind Fleming and @waitlisted (James' photography IG account). You've probably seen his photos on Instagram. Your journey is remarkable. When we first started talking, was that pre-COVID?

James: Early COVID. I was getting into photography, and you were growing your brand in the early stages. It's been cool to follow your journey.

Ken: I remember thinking his photos are great, then we chatted and I thought, "This guy KNOWS what he's talking about." Then suddenly he's shooting for Hodinkee and the Tiffany Patek (Philippe Nautilus 5711) novelty. That's quite a journey.

James: Looking back, so much happened from 2020 (when I bought my first camera) to 2022, when I left an 11-year legal career for watches full-time.

Learning photography, shooting for brands, and travelling to Switzerland — all within two years. I still struggle to process it. I never could have planned it, but I'm grateful it happened.

Ken: You've probably experienced more in the past two to three years than in your 11 years as a lawyer.

James: For sure. When I was considering leaving law for watches, I felt more proud of what I'd done in two years in the watch world than anything in 11 years as a lawyer. I hope my old boss doesn't watch this. But that was a driving force — realising this is where my heart is, where I actually have something to contribute. Luckily, I haven't regretted that decision.

Ken: When you're working in your passion, it's different. You wake up energised. It doesn't feel like work.

James: Exactly. I remember realising you also had a day job, which I didn't know because Delugs had grown so big. I thought, "There's no way this isn't Ken's entire life." Then I found out you still had a day job.

Ken: I left about two years ago. By then, we had an office and team members, so I was living this dual lifestyle. Neither side knew the other existed. It's good to be here where we're both in the industry now, versus when we first chatted and were just starting out.

James: It's been quite a ride!

Fleming Brand Overview & Origins

Ken: Let's talk about Fleming. You're the COO and Art Director of this relatively new brand. How would you describe Fleming to our audience?

James: We're a young brand that launched last year. Our core team is Thomas, who founded the brand and started working on it in 2020, and me — I joined at the end of 2022. We launched officially in 2024, so a little over a year ago. We only have one model in three variations.

The genesis was Thomas having an early COVID realisation that his other pursuits weren't where his heart was. Over the past 20 years, you have had people like Max Büsser or Ming (Thein) come along, who weren't the Swiss ideal of a watchmaker but were outsiders who successfully started watch brands. That gave Thomas and me confidence that, as two Americans far removed from the watchmaking industry, but passionate about watches, there was an avenue for us to take our vision and actually make it happen.

Ken: You weren't at Fleming when the watches were designed.

James: Right. Thomas started from a blank page in 2020, spent six months teaching himself CAD, designed the watch and then started cold emailing people in Switzerland. If you're an American emailing suppliers in English in Switzerland, you won't get many replies. Luckily, we found fantastic people to work with. When I joined, the core of the first series was done. My contribution will be the (Series 1) Mark II and future models.

Design Philosophy & Collector Background

Ken: Both you and Thomas are collectors and enthusiasts. You're a photographer. How has that shaped Fleming's design language?

James: Being a collector and photographer has been helpful because even before I dreamed of working in watches, I spent so much time thinking about my watches — what I liked and what I didn't.

When I was a lawyer, I'd spend time in the office looking at my watch, turning it under light, seeing how it reacted.

That helped when I got into watch photography because I'd considered what makes a good watch, either on the wrist or under light, and how different surfaces react. Ming shares this — his watch design is informed by concepts he honed as a photographer. You spend time thinking about how you want watches to look, what makes a good-looking watch that wears well. We take those insights when we design our own watches.